Beginners: basic tips to learn how to surf this summer
Summer is the period that has the highest number of people practicing on the beaches and enrolled in French schools affiliated to the French Surfing Federation. It is, therefore, necessary to recall here some basic rules to start surfing in complete serenity with the wise advice of Pierre Marc Gaillard, physical therapist, and trainer of the French team.
Preparing months in advance
Pierre Marc Gaillard, dit Pitou, will tell you from the outset that your summer surfing sessions, “they are prepared all year round”. And not just a week before, just to have a good conscience. He still recommends preparing his body at least six months in advance by doing pool lengths and running. The ideal is to swim twice a week and to run 20-30 minutes there also twice a week. “It’s good to punctuate the effort with fractionation: 10 seconds deep, 10 seconds of recuperation, 20 seconds deep, 20 seconds of recuperation…”, says the physical trainer of the French Surfing Federation. Doing cardio is essential, especially for the OAR.
To get up
To make a successful take off, some exercises will be very useful. How to regularly do 5 minutes of stretching but also 2 to 3 minutes of cladding. And do some push-ups, like a series of 4x5s a day or whatever, for the big ones, 20 at a time. “It’s important and ideal for learning to stand on a board,” says Pitou. For this, the Chinese pumps (do pumps and stand up) are perfect. And you can make them at home because sometimes we’re a little ashamed at the beach.”If you take 50 waves in 2h, know that this represents, in terms of effort, 50 pumps made in 2h.
To keep the balance
To fit on a board, it is essential to know how to represent your body in space. Pitou recommends that you try to “walk on the edge of a sidewalk” or ” put your socks on in the morning with your eyes closed “. It is important to close your eyes to make all brain sensors work. Our physical trainer is a follower of the Plant out method, perfect for working on balance.
To manage his effort
The idea is to manage to surf better and longer. Also to avoid being “carbo” after a quarter of an hour, because you have, especially when you’re starting, a propensity to take on all the waves that come up. Miscalculation. The contemplative aspect then comes into play. “You have to learn to look at the sea, set landmarks,” says Pitou. It’s the layout of the space. You also have to detect the current to avoid having to paddle against it.”Mental imaging also plays a fundamental role.
To hold well underwater
Surfing is also good for snorkeling. If some people can easily hold their breath for 4 minutes, it is recommended to be able to hold their breath for at least 40 to 60 seconds. One minute full lung and one-minute empty lung. It is best to practice in front of a mirror: as long as the lips do not become purple, it is that you can hold… “Working with apnea will help manage stress and calm the heart,” he says.
Have a well-nourished body
As for nutrition, Pierre Marc strongly and unexpectedly recommends banning alcohol and tobacco as much as possible. “Ideally, gluten-containing foods should also be avoided, as they are blockers.”Good quality, fruit, and vegetables are welcome. And before you go surfing, don’t forget that the digestion time is 3 hours. You have to think about that before you jump in the water.
Some essential rules for beginners
– I surf with a leash
– I stay in the foams or the small waves
– I use foam board.
– I don’t surf the rollers.
– I protect my head in case of a fall
– Choose waves adapted to your level
– Choose low-traffic spots
– Never surf in thunderstorms
– Protect yourself from the sun
If you can’t get back to the edge or drift away
– Don’t try to swim back to the edge.
– Stay on your board.
– Wave your arms to alert the paramedics.
Priority and usability rules
– 1 Wave = 1 surfer
– The surfer most inside the surf is a priority
– Don’t go on a wave if there’s someone out front.
– Don’t let go of your board by making ” ducks »
– Avoid collisions, go around the surf zone to go offshore
For the SUP (Sea, Lake or river)
– I always use a leash.
– I ask about the weather forecast: waves, the wind of land that moves away from the coast.
– It is recommended to always sail at least at 2.
– I ask if navigation is allowed (display, City Hall): I can board, sail and land
– If the water is less than 18°, I am wearing an anti-exposure suit.
– I’m informing someone ashore of my schedule and route.
– I inform of my departure
– I have to equip myself. :
– a light indicating a system which is watertight
– a vest and a combination (thermal protection).
– emergency kit and means of communication
– It is recommended to use a buoyancy aid vest.